Assembly of the sectional door
List of tools you will need:
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Suggested tools
Tools provided
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Assembly sequence of the sectional door
Step 1: preparation of the opening
Ensure that the dimensions of the opening match that of the door; thus, a door 2500 mm wide x 2000 mm high will have panels 2530 mm wide if you install the door behind the bay, or about 2400 mm if you install the door in the bay. Check the clearance above and behind the door to ensure there is the space required to operate the door.
Step 2: preparation of the garage door panels
Unpack the garage door panels and place them on a support (wood pieces, cardboard…) the outer side of the garage door sections face down (do so inside the garage). So at the bottom of the pile, you should have the top panel, just above the intermediate panels and at the top, the lower panel (which you will be setting first). Ensure you protect them to prevent scratches on the door.
Screw (socket of 10) the door bottom’s brackets, whilst ensuring that you are using the correct bracket (left and right different). Then, screw the panel’s top hinges (longer with the roller holder) as well as the central hinges in the provided holes.
Step 3: placement of the support rails
Open the package and take the vertical rails as well as the rubber to be placed above. With a hammer (taking care of not hitting too hard), push the rubber with the rubber curve facing inwards.
Position one rail against the wall (always start with the highest side in case the floor isn’t perfectly level). Take the lower panel and centre it in the opening, whilst checking that the top of the panel is indeed level. If necessary, place a block of wood to maintain the panel levelled. Centring the panel enables you to find the exact location where the vertical rail should be screwed on. The panel shall be positioned just behind the rubber you have just placed. Draw the areas where you will fix the rail (roughly every 50 cm). Position the second rail and draw as well.
It is vital that the edges of the top part of the vertical rails are levelled. To achieve this, you may have to raise one of the vertical rails or cut a few centimetres from the other. This operation should be carried out during this step, before screwing the rails.
Check one last time that your rail is level and screw/bolt the vertical rails firmly to the wall (use dowels, washers and lag bolts). Place a bracket roughly every 50 centimetres, including a bottom and a top flange to ensure nothing will move. Install the vertical rails level, perfectly parallel from each other, scrupulously observing the same distance between the right and left rails, from the top to the bottom of each rail. To achieve this, use the spirit level and the spacing bar.
Slot the horizontal rails and fix the corresponding holes with the bolts. Do not fix completely the rails just yet (you need to check the panels’ horizontality first). Place the spacing bar at the end of the rail so that everything is perfectly parallel.
Step 4: installation of the garage door panels
Insert the rollers in the parts located at the bottom of the door, on the lower panel. Raise the panel so as to place one roller and then the other (by rising higher) in the rail. Check that it is all square with the rail and level.
Get the second panel ready, as described in step 2. Position this panel above the first panel and position the roller parts provided for that purpose. Then, screw the roller brackets so they stay in place.
Repeat the same process for the remaining garage door sections.
Note: the last roller and its bracket (for the top of the upper panel) are important since they also allow the adjustment of the curved backdrop during the door motion. If your panel goes too high or if you have positioned the bearings vertically (instead of horizontally), you may need to rise the position of the brackets and the rollers to allow the door to follow a lower curve.
Step 5: installation of the horizontal rails
Fix the curved part of the horizontal rail to the vertical rail with the rail bolts.
Place the spacing bar at the end of the rails so that it becomes completely parallel.
Do not fix the rails to the ceiling yet, or do so with a flange system allowing some slack since as soon you open the door, you will see whether you need to move the rails on one side or the other to ensure everything is perfect.
Step 6: installation of the spring and the cables
Close the door and secure it to the ground with grip-pliers / vice-grips located at the top of the panels.
Draw a line on both sides of the top bearings in order to mark the position of the support bearings of the spring spindle.
Our springs are delivered pre-assembled: add the drums and the bearings on each side of the axis. To establish the direction of the springs: notice the supports to the centres (bearings), the cut corner should be face down. The springs may also be marked with black or red paint; in this case, the black spring goes to the right and the red one to the left. And finally, here is a technique to check whether the springs are well positioned (in case of front springs with cables inside): place the spring axle in front of the door; then, position yourself on the right hand side from the spring (from inside the garage), turn the spring half a turn clockwise; if the spring tightens, your axis and its springs are correctly positioned; if it loosens, you will need to rotate the whole axis (right spring on the left hand side).
Then, place the axis in the holes provided for this purpose in the upper part of the vertical rails. Push the bearings in the holes provided for this purpose and fix securely the central bearings to the wall; this will be the base for the springs’ tension. The shaft/the axis should be straight and level. Press the drums on the end brackets without tightening them.
Positioning of the traction cables: place the cable loop in the lower panel’s bracing (fix it with the screw and its bolt to be able to shorten or extend the cable a little). Run the cable between the door and the rail (behind the rollers) up to the drum. Rotate the cable twice and run it in the notch provided for this purpose in the drum. Now, block the spring axis/shaft with grip-pliers/vice grips and block the pliers against the wall, manually turn the drum until tension is obtained on the cable. Our cables are cut to the same length; you may therefore apply the same tension to both cables by measuring the length of the cable sticking out from the drum (as long as you have the screws of the lower panel’s parts at the same distance), thereafter, prevent the cable to come out using setscrews (cable block). Repeat the process for the remaining cable and drum.
Check: while tensioning the cables, check that the curve attached to the lower door part’s screw is correctly positioned.
ATTENTION — NEXT STEP (REASSEMBLE THE TORSION SPRING) REQUIRES CAUTION; A LACK OF PRECAUTIONS CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURIES.
While ensuring the locking pliers are tight on the shaft and resting against the wall, loosen the setscrews of the spring adjustment (spanner 10), then using the winding bars (NON INCLUDED), wind the mainspring TOWARDS THE CEILING (from the bottom to the top) according to the number of turns indicated. Tighten the setscrews on the axis. Follow the same process for the second mainspring (while ensuring you position the screws at the same place on each side).
Once these steps completed, take the setscrews out of the axis and the upper part of the door while holding the door for safety reasons. Then, operate manually slowly. Proceed to any additional adjustment of the mainspring according to the same process and precautions.
Now, check whether the door is well balanced; ideally, it should stabilise itself where you stop pushing it upwards, or pulling it downwards. A door’s “net” weight, regardless of dimension, should not be over 4,5 kg.
A slight upward or downward tendency isn’t significant, but if the door opens on its own as soon as it isn’t held anymore, or if it closes too fast and hit violently the flooring, you will need to adjust the spring accordingly.
Before proceeding to this adjustment, close the door, lock it, block the spring’s shaft with locking pliers, insert a raising bar in a hole of the screwed collar, hold firmly, and only then loosen the setscrew. Let the raising bar go downwards if the door move back up on its own, or push it upwards if the door collapsed on its own.
Take away or add ½ turn at a time, one spring at a time if there are two, and check. Do not forget to properly tighten the setscrew before removing the raising bars.
INSTALLATION OF REINFORCING RODS FOR DOORS OVER 3 M 50 CM
The most efficient method of installation consists in perforating the reinforcing rod against the hinges’ holes and screwing them directly on these.
Step 7 : lock and motorisation
Installation of the lock (if manual door)
Please consult the dedicated instruction manual.
Motorisation
Does your door work perfectly? You may now install your motor referring to the dedicated manual.
Step 8: finishing touches
The finishing touches shall be made according to the installation :
Silicone sealant: We advise you to always finish with a silicone seal (clear, white or brick red…) all around the door. This prevents air or humidity to penetrate.
Polyurethane foam: In order to isolate the inside, you may fill the open areas with extensible foam (advice: do not apply to much as this foam extends greatly and could push the rails).
Lubrication: use the lubricant WD40 to lubrify rollers and hinges, mainly in the curve of the rail. Repeat the process for the springs. Spray and wipe with a cloth; you will thus prolong the life of your springs.
